St Bazeille to Agen. Monday 29th June 2015.

The The bed at the home of Dave and Lizzy is the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in!  I didn't want to get up. 

But I did and enjoyed a light breakfast provided by Lizzie.  The pair of them are a delight! 

I was rolling just after 9am but just to the patisserie around the corner and the pharmacy.  Lunch bought and more factor 50 bought I was on my way.  Already just with my  vest top as it was so warm. 

I followed Daves directions to get to the Canal de Garonne.  I had to ride down an avenue of large trees.  They almost formed a tunnel. 

I'm led to believe that the trees were planted by Napoleon so the soldiers had shade to march in. 

Then I crossed the river Garonne before reaching the canal. 

It was very pleasant to have dappled shade to ride in.  The canal surface is good quality but in parts the tree roots have lifted the Tarmac. 

Being in the heart of an agricultural area I was flanked either side by fields of corn, wheat or sunflowers. 

The canal has captured my heart as has the country. 

I stopped off at a little rural cottage where a lady was selling cold drinks.  I had a cold coke and topped up my water bottles. 

As I zipped along the canal I was using my best French to greet people.  "Bon Jour" I chirped at every opportunity.  

I did just that to a couple eating breakfast on their boat.  " Good afternoon " came the reply in a South African accent.  It was morning time still.  I stopped and chatted for a while to this lovely couple from Durban. They were doing the canals over a couple of months.  They topped up my water bottle and I sped off, keen to get as far as I could before midday. 

I loved riding the canal, I must admit I thought it may be boring but not a bit! 

It's truly beautiful! 

I pulled off the canal next to the river for a late morning snack. 

It's a huge river with plenty of fish in it and bird life around it. 

It was a great spot to just admire it and take it all in. 

Once back on the canal, I spotted a large church spire up on a hill.  As hot as it was I just had to go up and see it.  So I came off the canal and rode up the hill.  

It was worth it. 

 A quick look around before a lovely descent back to the canal. 

I passed over several Aquaducts which just fascinate me.  

I was running low on water so I stopped at a B&B to refill.  There was a cute sign on the approach to the house. 

The kind gent allowed me to use his outside tap to fill my bottles and as it was so hot, I ran the cool water over my head.  Boy oh boy!  What a relief that was. 

Back on the canal.  Now surrounded by apple orchards.  The scale of farming here is enormous! 

Then I had the pleasure of meeting Jean Claude and his friend.  They too were riding the Canal but had come from Sete heading for Bordeaux.  We chatted for a while, exchanged e mails and went off in opposite directions. 

I kept on slapping on the factor 50 as I could feel the sun burning me.  By about 5pm I arrived in Agen. With temperatures soaring I really didn't want to camp so I found a motel with air conditioning in the room and took full advantage of it. 

The plan for tomorrow is a very early start to beat the heat and to get to Toulouse, just over 100 km away. 

Latresne to Marmande. Sunday 28th June 2015

It wasn't a particularly early start but it was already very warm by time I'd had my wonderful breakfast and began pedalling along an old railway line turned into a cycle track. 

There were quite a few riders out on this glorious Sunday morning. 

It was on this day that my mind was blown away by the sheer enormity of the Bordeaux Wine industry.  Either side of the trail and as far as the eye can see there are vineyards. 

I just couldn't take it all in! 

I stopped to just look, several times, 

Then a little surprise of a long tunnel to ride through. 

It was quite a long tunel and I was tempted to scream in it just for the fun of it but thought better of it in case someone was just round the bend. 

I came to the end of the track in a beautiful little town with a square in the middle made up of little shops and cafes. 

I popped into the shop for bread and tinned fish for my lunch and sat under the  arches to eat.  The above photo is from the table I sat at. 

I was out of track now so hit the road. 

There was no shade and it was at least 30 Celcius.  I just kept on pedalling through the heat.  My attention was always drawn to the vineyards and then another stunning first, A Golden sea of Sunflowers . 

To see these, I had diverted off the minor road onto little farm lanes around the huge fields.  I rode about 10km on these taking in the beauty of the golden blooms.  

I was making fairly good ground and needed food so headed back to the bigger road and passed a supermarket.  Perfect stopping time I thought.  But of course I'd forgotten it was Sunday and all shops were shut.   I passed a few villages but again all shops were closed.  As I came into Marmande I saw a cafe that was open. What a Godsend!  It was roasting and I needed a break.  It was about 5pm.  I had a lovely cooling icecream and bought a baguette for later.  I asked the man behind the counter if there were any local B&Bs around.  He pointed to a lady and gent sitting in the corner and said, ask Lizzie.  

Well... I did. Lizzie and David are a lovely couple of retired Australians.  They doubted I'd find anywhere due to the music festival being held.  They suggested I stayed with them as they have a spare room.  They said they had to go out that evening but I could stay and they would be back soon.  Then they  decided that the French couple they were visiting would like to meet me. 

They live 5km back in the direction I'd come from but that was no problem.  I accepted their very kind offer.  David explained where they lived and drive ahead, waiting for me at each junction. 

He was quite concerned as he said he car dash gauge was showing an outside temperature of 34 Celcius.  Didn't I know it!!.

We arrived at their gorgeous tardis of a house.  I was simply pouring with sweat, David ran me a cool bath and Lizzie made a fuss of me making sure I had everything I needed. 

After a quick bath and clean clothes on, we jumped into the car and drove into the country lanes.  David and Lizzie were perfect guides about what was around.  We were visiting some of their friends. A couple called Catherine and Serge from Paris who were in their summer residence.  It's a home that had been in the family for a couple of generations and only the Borgoise could afford.  

On our arrival we were greeted warmly as is the French way and shown round to a beautiful patio outside with huge double doors leading off the kitchen. 

Both retired, Cathetine and Serge are a delightful couple.  The table was laid with snacks and an assortment of drinks. 

They mostly spoke French but I never felt left out.  Lizzie speaks French very well and David can get by. 

Lizzie, Serge, David and Catherine. 

I had a wonderful evening with these good people. 

I was shattered by time we got back to Liz and Daves place.  I went to bed and slept soundly. 

Bordeaux. Saturday 27 June 2015

I arrived in Bordeaux around 2.15pm.  I wandered around the beautiful city after a  baguette and coffee sitting at a large street cafe. 

I cycled the old part of town and the popular area too. 

I love this bridge and had cycled over it before some years ago on a city break. 

I sat at another cafe just watching the world go by before heading along the river out of town. 

It was great to see Bordeaux again and I enjoyed more this time and even exorcised some ghosts.

The ride along the river was wonderful. 

Because I have radically changed my plans by going to Bordeaux I had no idea where I was going to stay tonight.  I googled a few places and settled for a cheap hotel along the river.  

Well it's the most wonderful little hotel in Latresne, with the comfiest bed and huge shower.  They even put my bike in their garage for the night. 

The only initial hitch was that no restaurants were open.  But the pizza place was and I had a fab takeaway. 

It was gone in no time at all.  

I had a stroll in this beautiful village as the sun was setting. 

I had a great nights sleep! 

Day 6. Train journey, La Rochelle to Bordeaux. Sat. 27 June 2015

I got up early this morning so I could wander the city before catching the train.

Well,  I have to come back to this city, it is vibrant, traditional and breathtaking.  It was market day today and I have never seen such an abundance of fruit, vegetables and seafood.  Oh and also buskers with more natural talent than you can shake a stick at. 

Have you ever seen such cherries?!

These the had many toes tapping and hips swaying. 

Wish my muscles were this big. 

Then a wander back to the hotel to pack up for the train.  On the way though I kept taking photos. 

Pedro met me back at the hotel and saw me off at the train station helping me lug my bike up and down stairs. 

There were quite a few bikes on the train . 

I arrived at Bordeaux at 2.20pm. 

Day 5. Jard sur Mer to LaRochelle. Fri. 26 June

Fab start to the day.  A few clouds but warm.  I didn't get very far when I left the campsite, I fact less than 300 metres when I stopped at a beach cafe for breakfast. 

Today I will ride along the coast. 

I left Jard at about 10 am and just headed south on a specific cycle route that actually runs all the way to La Rochelle.  

It was another really hot day and I stopped at a supermarket for a few supplies.  I chatted outside for a while to an elderly lady from Paris who told me that when she was young she used to camp on the beaches.  Aaaah, the good old days.  She had clearly spent her youth in the sun. 

I continued on the trail and was loving it, it was a winding dirt trail and I was in my element.

At 1pm I got to a little town just as the local patiserie shut.  So I retraced my route through town to a little bar I passed.  I ordered a cold coke and within a couple of minutes another cyclist joined me.  Pedro, from Switzerland.  We chatted and hit it off straight away.  He too was heading to La Rochelle, so I rode with him on the cycle route.  He is a well travelled man, very interesting and easy to talk to.   

As you can see it was a real mixed trail.  We followed canals and waterways most of the way and it was very well sign posted.  We missed a couple of turns because we were so engrossed in our chat.  

We passed fields of Sunflowers as far as the eye could see and oceans of wheat fields. 

The aroma of flowers in bloom filled the air and the sun was doing its best to cook us.  

We came to several locks and at one there were a bunch of lads jumping into the canal from the top of the big steel structures.  The were having a great time. 

 

As we neared La Rochelle the water became very clear with a green hue to it. 

We rolled along at a nice pace and laughed a lot.  

I decided I didn't want to camp and would stay in a hotel.  

We found a hotel in the centre of town, sorted our rooms out and went out for dinner.  Pedro had found the most fantastic restaurant and we gorged ourselves on seafood. 

We shared a mixed shellfish platter to start followed by fillets of fish.  

Pedro is great company with an excellent sense of humour.  We shared an appreciation for our surroundings and ability to be fortunate enough to do a trip like this. 

We strolled the town and it was buzzing with life, the sights and sounds assaulted my senses.  

It is a beautiful city by night and I was looking forward to seeing it by day. 

By time we returned to the hotel I was tired and ready for sleeping.  It was so hot that I slept on top of the duvet and slept soundly intil woken at 4am by the sound of rain. Within seconds I was asleep again.