Day 4. Machecoul to Jard sur Mer. 93km

What a difference a decent nights sleep makes and a change of mindset.  

I'd had a decent meal in the hotel and was soon asleep once I climbed into bed and spread myself out between the crisp clean sheets.  

I slept soundly filled with paracetamol and ibuprofen to ease the pain. 

I woke at seven to another glorious morning.  After breakfast I had to make a minor adjustment to my front brake as it was rubbing quite badly and I'd not noticed before. 

I felt ok, my neck was stiff and I had a headache so I popped more pills.  But I was very relieved that I was not feeling awful. 

My bike had the whole function room to sleep in overnight. 

It was set to be a very hot day so I slapped loads of sunscreen on. 

I had to ride back into town and past the dreaded crash spot to get on the right road heading south.  Once again it was a day of long straight roads with slight undulations. 

I was not pushing hard and was simply taking in my surroundings of vineyards, wheat fields and the lovely aroma of summer blooms.  I had no idea how far I would go today and it didn't matter.  I was taking it one village at a time. 

I got to Touvois quicker that I thought I would.  I popped into a pharmacy for more painkillers and a patisserie for my lunchtime baguette. 

The sun was beating down and there was no shade.  

I had my usual chat with the cattle. 

I think they understand me now.  

I passed small villages and towns. 

As I rode along I caught up with a young handsome French cyclist.  His English was better than my French and we rode together to the next town.  We chatted all the way, he was testing out his bike for an around the world trip starting this August.  He had also toured Britain. He took me to a lovely park that he knew where he left me to have my lunch.  

I was glad of a bit of shade to rest in.  While I ate I considered my next move in terms of destination.  

I decided to head for the coast and just stop when I was tired. 

The farmers were hard at work, I imagine those cabs are air conditioned as it was super hot at this point and I stopped to put more sunscreen on. 

I stopped again in s small town for a cold coke and I was sweating pints! 

I still felt good though and knew at this point I'd make the coast tonight.  

I still took my time and enjoyed everything around me. 

I was thrilled to get to this seaside town and headed straight for the sea before looking for a campsite. 

It's a lovely seaside town with lots of little shops and cafes. 

Once at the campsite I put up my tent, showered and threw all my dirty clothes in the washing machine on site.  I made myself a baguette of tinned fish and loved it. 

I was more slick at putting the tent up this evening.  

Below is my route for today. 

Tomorrow I should get to La Rochelle in good time.  I plan on taking the coast route. 

Today has been fabulous despite my discomfort! 

The dryer ran out of money so I had to make a washing line. 

Then it was time to explore the beach front.

What a treat, the sun was setting on the beach and harbour.

I took loads of photos then settled at a little bar/cafe for wine and crepes. 

A good way to end the day. 

Day three. St Etienne to Machecoul. Wed 24th June

After yesterday I was feeling very tired.  I slept better as it wasn't as cold but I did wake when the makeshift blanket kept sliding off.  That was my jacket and cycling clothing. I was woken at 7 by the sound of the church bells, but was so tired I lay in the tent until after 8am.  My whole body was stiff and aching.  I crawled out the tent and was instantly cheered by a glorious morning of clear skies and gentle breeze.  I got my camp stove on and cooked a large pot of porridge with loads of milk and honey. 

I left the porridge to cool in the pot while I  went for a quick wash.  I'd foiled the two pesky dogs as I'd seen the hole in the fence that they used and I'd blocked it up.  Everything I did was in slow motion and it took ages for me to pack up camp.  

I knew that today I wouldn't be riding too far.  Initially I did what I usually do and berate myself for not being tougher and stronger.  But then gave myself a talking to about being more relaxed and not putting such pressure on myself.  Once I got my head around that I was cool with whatever distance I covered today.  So I set small goals, from one town to the next. Once I'd settled my bill and set off it was 11am.  

The above is the campsite reception. 

My first treat was 6 miles into the ride.  I had the Loire River to cross.  There are very few bridges across this river so there are a few ferries one can use.  I crossed at Coueron to Le Pellerin. 

I was lucky enough to arrive just as it was loading.  It's a small ferry that takes about 15 cars at a time and takes about 10 minutes to cross. 

There were a few cyclist on the ferry to but mostly locals.  

As I cycled on, I took tiny back roads again and really felt the heat. 

I soon came by the first of many vineyards. 

At the next town I came to I found another amazing patisserie and bought lunch.  Another giant baguette.  This time I sat in the square and ate it. 

It was 1pm and I didn't want to ride much more. So after another 10km I came to Machecoul. Here I tried to catch a train to the coast but bikes are not allowed on from here.  There's a campsite about 15Km from here so that was the planned last stop.  First I went to a supermarket and bought my night time and breakfast supplies.  It was so lovely and cool in the shop, I wanted to stay there. 

But I couldn't and I was tired so needed to get camp set up to rest.

Sadly I never made that campsite. 

Whilst about to cross the road at a crossing where I had right of way, I looked left and saw a car approaching and it was not about to stop.  As I hit the brakes my front wheel dropped into a divet and somehow I ended up crashing over.  It happened in awful slow motion and I couldn't stop it.  I landed heavily and hit my head pretty hard.  My handlebar bag burst open and the contents went flying, half of it landing on the road. The heel of my right hand is sore and bruised from trying to break my fall.  The car didn't stop.  But a kind young man ( I can say that now I'm almost 50) stopped and jumped out his vehicle to help me and my bike up.  He was very concerned about my head and neck but I told him I was ok.  Once I'd gathered myself and assured him I was alright, he left.  

After a few minutes I didn't feel so good, my head hurt, my neck hurt, my elbow hurt my hand hurt and my pride was dented. 

Because I hit my head rather hard I decided to be really sensible and spoil myself to a hotel.  I found one about 2km down the road.  Once there I showered and lay on the lovely clean bed for a while.  It's a bloody small room and tiny shower but feels like luxury.  I check my helmet and its damaged on the side but nearer the back of my head. 

My gorgeous bike is scratched and my lovely top is torn. 

It could have been worse so I'm counting myself lucky. 

I will have a good warm sleep I hope and be fighting fit in the morning. 

Day two. Paimpont to St Etienne de Montluc. Tues. 23rd June

 It was a scorcher today by my standards, 25 Celsius.  Which is the opposite to the kind of night I had.  I was bloody freezing! It had rained in the night so everything was wet.    When I crawled out my tent I was so pleased to see clear skies and the sun just appearing above the tree line.  

I had a warm shower and donned yesterday's smelly gear.  It was a warm start to the day.  

I had not been able to buy milk in the village to make porridge so with a handful of nuts for breakfast I set off at about 9am. 

The previous night I had mapped my ride and it was extremely easy to navigate.   It was a day of very long straight roads flanked by fields of corn, wheat or cattle. Again I passed through the most delightful villages and towns.  I was hungry so stopped as soon as I could for some food.  

I was tempted to get one of everything

But I just got a croissant and a baguette for later. The baguette was very long and I felt so cool cycling out of town with it sticking out of my jersey pocket.  Get me! 

I also stopped a little earlier for a coffee.  I love French coffee! 

I made pretty good time as the roads we're fairly flat and I hardly needed to check the map.  What was hard though was not stopping all the time to take photos.  By midday I'd managed 45km.  I stopped in a woods and ate most of my baguette. 

It was roasting hot now and I put more sunscreen on. 

The heat and constant flat pedalling began to take its toll on me.  I was feeling pretty tired.  One town I went through had a supermarket so I stopped to get supplies for the evening meal. Up until now there had been very few grocery shops so I thought I'd better get what I need here. I still had thirty miles to go but didn't want to be in the same position as yesterday.  I bought, milk, pasta, fish and peas and bread.  I stuffed it all in my panniers and reluctantly set off in the heat with the sun beating down. I stopped a few times for a snack and photo opportunity.  I finally got to this town at 5pm. Then had trouble finding the bloody camp site.  Worse than that there is a supermarket nearby. 

The reception was closed so I just went to a corner of the site and set up camp. 

I emptied all my bags and instantly my corner looked like a family of gypsies had moved in. 

I was exhausted and just wanted to lie down.  But I had to put up the tent, shower and cook my food.  Once I'd showered I felt a bit better.  The facilities are pristine here.  

I got my cooker going and soon had a big plate of food. 

I sat at picnic bench about 25 feet away and was so engrossed in stuffing my face that I didn't notice the two dogs polishing off what I'd left for later by my tent. I ran over to chase them off and they thought it was play time. Anyway, they'd finished the food and eaten half my wooden spoon. 

Just as well I'd put enough on my 

plate.  

Now I've eaten and washed up, I need to look at the map to work out tomorrows route.  

I am anticipating another bloody cold night. 

Here is the bomb site. 

Day one. St Malo to Paimpont

95km.  The day didn't start so well, I did have a giggle at myself though.  I couldn't find my way out of St Malo, I thought how the hell will I find my way to the South of France at this rate! Once I was on the right road I was away.  Then I ended up on a motorway in error.  I stopped and pushed the bike back on the grass verge.   From then on I was sorted, I have sussed out the road signs now.  It was a dull day and it rained lightly on and off. I was smiling to myself a lot today.  The roads were excellent and I was on very quiet country lanes.  I kind of made up the route as I went as I kept finding interesting roads.  There were acres of fields with corn, wheat and potatoes.  Plenty of cattle and horses, all of which got a taste of my terrible French.  Well I have to practice!   The small villages I passed were adjourned with sweet smelling flowers.  The scent was beautiful, so much so that I would slow down to get as much as possible.  

I did have to stop quite a few times to check the map.  I decided that I would stop at Paimpont for the night at their campsite. I found it easily and was there by 5 pm.  I put up my tent and had a long hot shower.  Then I sauntered into town to the only open restaurant.  The food was "tres superbe ". I'm really pleased with day one.  

The journey begins

It's 8.30pm Sun 21st June. All of me is wobbling slightly as the throb of the ferry engines gently shake the huge boat. I'm sitting on the top deck in the bar as we slide out of the harbour to the soft tunes of Ed Sheran. My bicycle is safely stowed away with several other cycles.  This my first ever trip on a ferry.  It's another experience to cherish.  Tomorrow I will ride off this boat into the French countryside.