Friday 3rd July. Train to Arles

I went to the station early to make sure I could get a bike reservation on the train.  That wasn't a problem but when I handed my debit card over it was declined.  Mild panic set in but I had my credit card so used that.  No problem there.  When I returned to the hotel I used the wifi  and confirmed I still had funds in the bank.  I just hadn't informed them I was going to France.  All resolved with a few clicks on the app.  The wonders of modern life hey. 

I loaded my bike and cycled all 75 metres to the train station.  

Unfortunately you have to cross under the first line to get to any passenger platforms.  That means down a double set of steps and up a double set of steps.  

Not easy with a fully loaded bike . 

 Anyway you have to wait in the main terminus until the board tells you which platform your train will use as they change each day.  It's usually displayed 20 minutes before train arrival. 

While I'm waiting I see a very large lady start to struggle down the steps with her oversized suitcase.  She had to go down backwards very slowly.  It looked a struggle.  

I asked an elderly gent to watch my bike and went to the woman's aid.  I carried her case down and up to her platform.  She had trouble carrying herself.

As it happened she was American and also on the same train as me.  

Now it was my turn to get to the platform.  I spotted a young chap who looked likely to help.  I asked him and he did.  It was still bloody hard with two of us. 

Getting on the train was a major mission!

I had to lift it up and into a small space. 

It's quite annoying that there is no station assistance.  As I was struggling to get into the bike carriage a couple of teenagers stood right in my way.  I was losing the battle to get the bike on when a very kind lady lifted the back of the bike for me. 

The teenagers moved along and into the bike carriage.  It was just us three in there. I pushed my panniers into a corner  and tried to hang my bike up on the rack. 

I simply wasn't strong enough to do it and the pair of teenagers just watched me struggling as my shaking arms were trying to lift the bike enough to get the front wheel on the hook. 

I failed dismally and stood there holding my bike vertically when the conductor geezer came by.  He helped me out the bike up but I had to ask twice. 

Another conductor came by to check tickets.  I asked if I could get some help getting off the train at Arles.  I think he understood and nodded. 

It was baking hot!  No air con in the carriage. 

At the next stop a young lad got on with a BMX bike and hung his up next to mine. 

I slept on the train for a while, despite the seat not being very comfy. 

Before we arrived at Arles I began to worry about getting my bike down as I wasn't convinced the conductor was going to help. 

I asked the young lad to help me and he did. So my bike was down off the rack and my two panniers were off the bike. 

When my stop came I knew I wouldn't have much time to get off. 

But as it was the lad was a true gent.  As it stopped I put my bags on the platform and when I turned to go back for my bike, the lad was bringing it out for me. 

A credit to youth he is. 

The platform I was on meant I had to negotiate more steps.  One set down and another going back up to get out. 

The other passengers had left while I put the panniers back on the bike. 

I managed to push the bike down the steps but when it came to getting in up the other side I was beaten again. 

There was a luggage ramp alongside the steps. 

But I could not push my bike up that, I did try but just didn't have the strength. 

I left the bike at the bottom and went up to find help.  I found two guys working at the station and asked for assistance and they willingly obliged. 

Then I cycled into Arles and stopped to admire the Rhone before finding a lunch spot. 

Toulouse to Castlenaudary. Wed 1st July. 70 km

My start today was fairly early, about 8am.  Funnily enough another hot sunny day in store.  Today I was starting on the Canal du Midi.  It was right across the road from the Ibis hotel that I had stayed in.  My bike had been stored in a function room so it was easy to get going.  I did load it up in the hotel reception which sparked lots of interest.  

Once again I rolled myself in factor 50 to prepare for the sun.  

Today was going to be a relaxed affair as I only had 70 km to go.  

The canal circumnavigates the city before continuing South East.  The canal was busy with joggers and cycling commuters. 

At one point the path dropped and instead of a plain slope downward there was a fun spiral path that dropped the path onto the canal again.  It was such fun I did it twice.  

The light in the morning makes for great photos. 

At each lock is a lock house and the plaque on the wall tells you where you are and the distance to the next lock either side.  Some of the houses are occupied, others are abandoned. 

I hadn't gone very far when the opportunity of a coffee was presented at one of the lock houses. 

The canal is afforded shade by the many trees that line it either side. 

What I noticed today is that each tree has  a little tin tag nailed to it.  Each has a number and is in numerical order. 

Now there must be thousands of trees along this canal and each has a tag.   The sad thing is I have learned that there I'd 42000 of them and they have been struck by an icurable fungus and all have to be cut down.  

I stopped for lunch sitting canal side with a couple of Spanish guys.  I sat with my bare feet in the cool water and we chatted about the route. They are brothers and go on lots of rides together. 

They continued on before me and I stayed a while, enjoying the cool water. 

Shortly after continuing I came across two men walking with huge rucksacks but the cutest thing was their dog which had its own little load. 

Then further along to the left of the canal path I saw a car nose down in the ground .  I stopped to take a photo and then as I was cycling away I saw something shining in the long grass and looked harder.  To my amazement I saw a whole string of old bicycles in an arc.  The front one had a makeshift rider on it.  I stood there laughing out loud like a crazy woman. 

Further on I stopped at a public water tap and there were three geese there who were keen on being fed.  They gave chase to some people but I found if you held your nerve they were ok.  This one came right up to the camera as I squated down to her level.  She touched me with her beak and that was that. 

 Further on, due to the strong wind the trail was blocked by a fallen tree.  Lucky for me the Spanish brothers came along behind me and helped me lift my bike over.  

Later I came to the highest point on the canal.  Up to now all the locks had been going up, now they were going down toward the Mediterranean.  

The trail was now on the right side of the canal and no longer Tarmac but a narrow dirt track.  I also saw a huge field of Garlic. 

Above is the track, now a narrow dirt track.  My favourite! 

William was living it up. All the benefits none of the effort. 

I had ridden 70 km at a leisurely pace with a head wind all the way.  

There was a little hotel right on the canal and I was sweating like a race horse  again so couldn't resist checking in.  

After a cool shower I wandered the lovely town.  It was a little spoilt by a creep following me around on a bicycle.  He was wearing really short shorts with his bits hanging out and made sure I was aware of that as he passed me the first time.  Then everywhere I went he was behind me.  This went on for at least 30 minutes then I took a steep hill from the canal side up into the town on a side street as he didn't look capable of riding up a hill.  To my dismay when I turned to look, he was on his way up.  I stepped into an alleyway then immediately realised that was a stupid move.  I came back out into the street and he had given up on the hill and was rolling back down. 

I carried on into town and had a lovely meal before wandering back to the hotel. 

Agen to Toulouse. Tues. 30 June. 122 km. 39 Celcius

Last night I packed my bags all ready for the morning to make an early start. All because the temperature was set to soar even higher than yesterday. 

I was on the road by 6.20 am.  It was nice and cool and just got light. Within about 10 minutes I was back on the canal.  

I had put lashings of factor 50 on and felt like I'd bathed in the stuff. 

The light is gorgeous at this time of day and makes everything look even more spectacular! 

I now know why the famous artist geezer painted a field of sunflowers.  I didn't get it until now.  They really are a sight to behold.  Though how I'm not blind by now I don't know.  I've had so much salty sweat pouring in my eyes I could start my own salt farm.  

This place name made me smile.  I'd had some grizzles of my own as I felt myself cooking. 

There are plenty of Aquaducts carrying the water over valleys. 

The river Garonne meanders across the countryside and often is right next to the canal. 

In the afternoon a head wind got up which started as a gentle cooling breeze but built up to a wind that made the riding harder. 

As I neared Toulouse the area became built up with industrial estates.  As is the same with any city.  

I had googled a campsite and it wasn't looking good as apparently the area around it had lots of homeless folk hanging around.  That put me off. 

I could see temporary shacks and tarps as homes for people right next to the canal. Then the canal was blocked by some fencing so I detoured through an industrial estate.  It was clearly a rough area and it was after 5pm, the stares from men hanging around on corners made me u comfortable.  Before long I was lost but kept cycling with purpose so as not to look lost.  For once I was grateful for the head wind I had that afternoon as I knew I was going roughly in the right direction so long as I was heading into the wind.  The area got a little less industrial and I found myself in a dodgy looking residential area.  A lad came my way and I asked him the way to the canal.  He pointed to a narrow alley.

I hesitated but made my way down the alley and sure enough the canal was nearby.  Only problem was there were two flight of stairs to get up to the canal. 

My bike fully laden is bloody heavy!  Next to the steps was a low wall I managed to get my bike on this and wheeled it up as I walked up the stairs.  It was a real battle, taking one step at a time with a huge heave ho each step.  By time I got to the top my eyes were shut tight stinging like mad from the sweat running into them. 

After about 20 minutes I was in the city.  I spotted an Ibis hotel and decided that was my stop for the night.  It was still a rough part of the city and out of the blue an unsavoury character was right beside me asking if I needed a hotel.  I said yes and pushed my bike right into the foyer of the Ibis. I was not a pretty sight after a long hot day.  But I was grinning, I'd made it to Toulouse, on one of the hottest days of the year. 

St Bazeille to Agen. Monday 29th June 2015.

The The bed at the home of Dave and Lizzy is the most comfortable bed I've ever slept in!  I didn't want to get up. 

But I did and enjoyed a light breakfast provided by Lizzie.  The pair of them are a delight! 

I was rolling just after 9am but just to the patisserie around the corner and the pharmacy.  Lunch bought and more factor 50 bought I was on my way.  Already just with my  vest top as it was so warm. 

I followed Daves directions to get to the Canal de Garonne.  I had to ride down an avenue of large trees.  They almost formed a tunnel. 

I'm led to believe that the trees were planted by Napoleon so the soldiers had shade to march in. 

Then I crossed the river Garonne before reaching the canal. 

It was very pleasant to have dappled shade to ride in.  The canal surface is good quality but in parts the tree roots have lifted the Tarmac. 

Being in the heart of an agricultural area I was flanked either side by fields of corn, wheat or sunflowers. 

The canal has captured my heart as has the country. 

I stopped off at a little rural cottage where a lady was selling cold drinks.  I had a cold coke and topped up my water bottles. 

As I zipped along the canal I was using my best French to greet people.  "Bon Jour" I chirped at every opportunity.  

I did just that to a couple eating breakfast on their boat.  " Good afternoon " came the reply in a South African accent.  It was morning time still.  I stopped and chatted for a while to this lovely couple from Durban. They were doing the canals over a couple of months.  They topped up my water bottle and I sped off, keen to get as far as I could before midday. 

I loved riding the canal, I must admit I thought it may be boring but not a bit! 

It's truly beautiful! 

I pulled off the canal next to the river for a late morning snack. 

It's a huge river with plenty of fish in it and bird life around it. 

It was a great spot to just admire it and take it all in. 

Once back on the canal, I spotted a large church spire up on a hill.  As hot as it was I just had to go up and see it.  So I came off the canal and rode up the hill.  

It was worth it. 

 A quick look around before a lovely descent back to the canal. 

I passed over several Aquaducts which just fascinate me.  

I was running low on water so I stopped at a B&B to refill.  There was a cute sign on the approach to the house. 

The kind gent allowed me to use his outside tap to fill my bottles and as it was so hot, I ran the cool water over my head.  Boy oh boy!  What a relief that was. 

Back on the canal.  Now surrounded by apple orchards.  The scale of farming here is enormous! 

Then I had the pleasure of meeting Jean Claude and his friend.  They too were riding the Canal but had come from Sete heading for Bordeaux.  We chatted for a while, exchanged e mails and went off in opposite directions. 

I kept on slapping on the factor 50 as I could feel the sun burning me.  By about 5pm I arrived in Agen. With temperatures soaring I really didn't want to camp so I found a motel with air conditioning in the room and took full advantage of it. 

The plan for tomorrow is a very early start to beat the heat and to get to Toulouse, just over 100 km away.